Lucerne and Engelberg are going to be a nice break from the craziness of Paris. I always like to build in a couple of overnights in a smaller town to allow myself to refresh and rebuild between big cities. Engelberg, a ski and hiking resort town high in the Alps, is a perfect place in which to do this. The alpine air is crisp and fresh, even in the middle of the summer. I love to leave my window open just a little bit as I sleep under the big down comforter that is common to German and Swiss hotels. Engelberg is also where I like to take a long after-dinner walk through town, past the monastery, and into the pastures just outside of town. Be prepared for chilly weather! Switzerland can be cold and rainy even in July!
Think of our afternoon in Lucerne as an opportunity to slow down and relax for a moment. The Guilded Age of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries has left the biggest mark on Lucerne. Paddlewheel steamers still deliver sightseers to destinations around Lake Lucerne. Take some time to wander around the narrow, automobile-free streets of the old town. Lucerne is a great place to do some shopping for chocolate and Swiss Army knives (or some wardrobe refreshing at H&M). While most of Lucerne has been shaped by the nineteenth century, there is still a segment of the old city walls left for you to explore (just head uphill). Lucerne also plays host to a gallery of modern masters like Picasso, Klimt, and Klee at the Rosengart Collection (http://www.rosengart.ch/foundation.php5).
Restaurants in Switzerland can be expensive because only 17% of Switzerland can be utilized for agricultural purposes (the price for living in the Alps). That's why I always make sure to take only what I know I will be able to eat at breakfast and other meals in the hotel, especially if I am staying at a family-run hotel like the Edelweiss. That is also why I take the opportunity in Lucerne to grab some quick food and a beer at a supermarket (there's a good one in the train station) and have a picnic on the lake. After lunch with the ducks and the swans, you could take a short trip on the lake on a foot-powered paddleboat.
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