Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Free Time Suggestions: Florence and Montecatini




The Renaissance, and modern Europe, were born in Florence a little over 600 years ago. This city gave early modern European history many of its first artistic, literary, and scientific geniuses (Petrarch, Brunelleschi, Pico della Mirandola, Botticelli, Michelangelo, Da Vinci, Raphael, Galileo...). Today, Florence is a city that is still alive with this history. Due to the change in the direction of our travel, we actually have two afternoons in this beautiful city instead of only one. We already have a timed entrance into the Accademia Gallery to visit Michelangelo's David and his Prisoners. Here are a few suggestions to fill the rest of our Florentine excursion:

-Uffizi Gallery: This is the other museum in Florence that makes it onto most "must see" lists. The lines of tourists waiting outside to get in only serves to reinforce this notion. Once the offices (uffizi) of the Medici, the Uffizi Gallery now houses the greatest collection of Florentine Renaissance artwork in the world. If you plan on visiting this museum, skip the line by booking tickets online now.

-Museum of San Marco: This museum, housed in the old Dominican monastery of San Marco, contains a great collection of frescoes by Fra Angelico.

-Medici Chapels: This museum, part of the complex of the basilica of San Lorenzo, contains the great tombs of Lorenzo and Giuliano de' Medici that were designed by Michelangelo.



-Climb the Campanile or Brunelleschi's Dome: Looking for a great view of Florence? Either of these two sights (both a part of Florence's famous cathedral) should fit the bill nicely.

-Duomo Museum: Check out Ghiberti's panels for the Gates of Paradise (the begining of the Renaissance) and Michelangelo's Pietà in the cathedral's official museum.



-Palazzo Pitti & Boboli Gardens: The home of the Grand Dukes of Tuscany and the king of Italy (for the brief period in which Florence was the capital), this palace also houses the most beautiful gardens in Florence.

Go to the official website of the State Museums of Florence for more information:
http://193.42.139.9/english/musei/musei.asp

Montecatini Terme:


Montecatini, a resort town to the west of Florence, has long been known for its healing spa waters. The first baths were constructed below the old town during the 1530, one of which was named for the Medici family. The newer resort town of Montecatini dates from the Belle Epoque of the late 19th and early 20th century. It was a favorite haunt of Hollywood celebrities during the 1930s. This is the town in which we will be staying. The old medieval town of Montecatini sits high on a rocky mountain above the spa town, and can be reached via a 19th-century funicular. Think of Montecatini as the perfect place to relax after the craziness and heat of Florence. My suggestions for free time in Montecatini are few. Take a walk through the resort town and enjoy some gelato. During my last visit to Montecatini I took in a free concert at one of the big spas. The best excursion in Montecatini is the funicular ride up to the old town.



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Saturday, April 14, 2012

Free Time Suggestions: Venice






Of all the cities we are visiting, Venice is the most beautiful and the most unchanged. From about 1100 to 1550, Venice was one of the most powerful and wealthy cities in the world. From their island home in the Adriatic the Venetians ruled a vast trading empire that spaned the Adriatic, Mediterranean, and Black Seas. In fact, Venice had a virtual monopoly on trade with the East. All of that changed after 1500. New trade routes opened up by Portuguese and Spanish explorers enabled the nation states of Europe to cut out the middle man, and shifted the axis of European trade from the Mediterranean to Atlantic states like Spain, Portugal, France, England, and the Netherlands. Venice, no longer the center of world trade, entered into a period of very gradual decline that continues today.
Tourism, while it keeps the city alive, has also accelerated Venice's demise. The crush of millions of tourists every year has taken a toll on the slowly sinking Venice, and can detract significantly from its charm. The flocks of cruise-ship bound tourists that flood Venice every day are best avoided by hanging around until the evening. Venice is much quieter, and much more charming during the evening hours. That is one of the reasons our tour company, ACIS, books us in hotels close to the city center. Here are a few suggestions for your free time in Venice:




-Wander the back streets: During the day, the main tourist areas of Venice can be overwhelmingly crowded. During my last visit to Venice I discovered that wandering the streets away from the major tourist attractions can be incredibly rewarding, and a lot less crammed full of tourists. There isn't a single area of Venice that is not picturesque. The back streets are filled with small piazzas, beautiful villas, and gently leaning church towers (Did I mention that the city is sinking?) The good thing about wandering around an island is that you really can't get lost. Eventually, you will run into the lagoon.




-Take a ride on a gondola: Most visitors to Venice place a gondola ride at the top of thier "to do" list. Unfortunately, many of them experience a bit of sticker shock once they get there. Gondola rides can be expensive. The prices are regulated. A 40 minute ride during the evening will run you 100€ (about $130). The price, however, can be divided by up to six people.

-Experience a Vivaldi concert: Venice loves its native son, the violinist and composer Antonio Vivaldi. As a priest, Vivaldi worked as a violinist and music teacher at a Venitian orphanage. It was during the thirty years he spent in this position that Vivaldi composed most of his beautiful baroque choral pieces, operas, and concertos. The most famous of these works is "The Four Seasons." It is always possible to find a performance of Vivaldi's works somewhere in Venice. If you are interested, our tour manager can help you book tickets.

-Visit the Accademia Gallery: This large museum houses a grand collection of paintings dating from the fourteenth century to the late Renaissance and Venice's days as a major stop on the 18th-century Grand Tour. Here you will find works by Veronese, Tintoretto, Titian, and Canaletto. ( http://www.gallerieaccademia.org/the-museum/?lang=en )

-Visit the Peggy Guggenheim Collection: If modern art is your deal then the Peggy Guggenheim Collection is your museum. This museum, opened in 1980, houses Peggy Guggenheim's personal collection of American and European art from the first half of the 20th century. ( http://www.guggenheim-venice.it/inglese/default.html )

-See the works of three Renaissance masters in the Chiesa dei Friari: This is a recommendation for all of the AP Art History geeks on the trip. In this one church you can cast your eyes upon the works of three Renaissance masters: Bellini, Donatello, and Titian. This final master of the Venitian Renaissance, Titian, is interred in the church. ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frari )




-Visit the Doge's Palace: This was the most powerful piece of real estate in Venice during its days as an independent republic. The price of admission is well worth a visit to the seat of Venitian power. Don't forget to take a quick trip over the Bridge of Sighs to the prison that actually held the famous Cassanova during your visit. ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doge%27s_Palace,_Venice)




-Cruise the lagoon to Burano: This small island fishing village is about a half hour by vaporetto (water bus) from Venice. A much smaller version of Venice, complete with its own canals, Burano has managed to keep most of its charm over the centuries. The wives of Burano made sure to paint their homes in bright, floral colors so that their husbands could always see their homes when they were out fishing in the lagoon. The women of Burano also adapted their skills for repairing fishing nets to the art of creating fine, hand-made lace.
For more information about visiting Venice you can check out Rick Steves' website: http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/destinations/italy/italy_menu.htm

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Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Free Time Suggestions: Munich






Munich has often been called the "most livable" city in Europe. Most of the old city is a car-free pedestrian zone, and bicycle lanes connect most of the city. If it can't be reached on foot, you can be sure that you can get there on the underground or in a streetcar. Müncheners love to live outside. You can be sure to find hundreds of them relaxing in the Englischer Garten, Munich's main park, during their lunch hours. Long summer evenings are best spent in one of Munich's many beer gardens. This "Millionendorf" (village of a million people) is one of my favorite places in Europe. However, I might be influence by the fact that most of my family live in the Munich area.
Here are a few suggestions for filling up your free time in Munich:




Englischer Garten: This is Europe's largest and most used city park. Müncheners take full advantage of this giant outdoor space, and use it as their outdoor livingroom during the summer. They swim (and surf!) in the stream that wanders its way through the park. Some of them sunbathe nude on it's banks (just a warning). Follow the tree-lined paths to find one of my favorite lunch spots, the beer garden underneath the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower). ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Englischer_Garten )

Viktualienmarkt: If you're looking for good eats for lunch, this is the place. The Viktualienmarkt is a collection of food stands, beer vendors, and farmer's market stalls that is subsidized by the city government to keep local farmers and small business owners in and big business out. After a good bratwurst with potato salad and beer, I like to wander through the market stalls to pick up a snack for later. ( http://www.muenchen.de/int/en/shopping/markets/viktualienmarkt.html )

Dallmayr: This delicatessen and café has been serving Munich since 1700. At one time Dallmayr was the official purveyor of fine coffees and food to the dukes and kings of Bavaria. If you want to take a picnic lunch to the Englischer Garten, Dallmayr would be a wonderful place to pick up a tasty treat. Dallmayr is also well known for it's fine coffees, locally-produced honey, and fantastic chocolates. The chocolates contain no preservatives, which is just an excuse to consume them promptly after purchase. ( http://www.dallmayr.com/ )

Olympiapark: Built for the 1972 Olympic Games, Olympiapark now serves as a cultural and sporting center for Munich. The buildings of the Olympic Stadium, the Events Hall, and the Swim Hall are designed to mirror the peaks of the Bavarian Alps to the south. The highlight for most visitors is the 291 meter (955 feet) tall Olympiaturm (Olympic Tower). A 30 second elevator ride shoots visitors to the observation platform and revolving restauraunt at the top. ( http://www.olympiapark.de/?L=1 )

BMW Museum: This museum, located next to the giant BMW Welt (BMW World) showcase and BMW headquarters, highlights the history of Bavaria's ultimate driving machine. ( http://www.bmw-welt.com/web_rb/bmw-welt/en/bmw_museum/overview.html )

Art Museums: The Kunstareal (Art Area) of Munich is the home of three amazing art museums.
-The Alte Pinakothek hosts the art of the Old Masters, including Dürer, Botticelli, Raphael, and Titian. ( http://www.pinakothek.de/en/alte-pinakothek )
-The Neue Pinakothek houses the art of the 19th century. This includes an impressive collection of French Impressionists and Van Gogh canvases. ( http://www.pinakothek.de/en/neue-pinakothek )
-The Pinakothek der Moderne is the newest (opened in 2002) of the art museums in Munich. It houses a fantastic collection of 20th- and 21st-century art within its very modern walls. ( http://www.pinakothek.de/en/pinakothek-der-moderne )




Climb a Church Tower: If you're looking for a great view of the old town and the Bavarian Alps, you should consider climbing the stairs of one of Munich's church towers. There are two opportunities to do this within walking distance of the Marienplatz, the center of the old town. The south tower of the Frauenkirche, Munich's main cathedral and seat of the Archbishop of Munich and Freising is open for visitors to climb. The Alte Peter (Old Peter) tower of St. Peter's Church, built on the spot where the monks that gave Munich it's name built their monastery in the 8th century, also allows visitors to climb the stairs to the top. ( http://www.panorama-cities.net/munich/frauenkirche.html )

The Residenz: This Renaissance-style palace was the winter home to Wittelsbach rulers of Bavaria. The Residenz contains an impressive collection of miniature masterpieces, busts of Roman emperors, and the crown jewels of Bavaria. ( http://www.residenz-muenchen.de/englisch/residenc/index.htm )

Hofbräuhaus: Munich's most famous beerhall, the Hofbräuhaus is a bit wild, loud, and touristy. However, if you're looking to take in what Bavarians refer to as a "Gemütlich" scene, the Hofbräuhaus is a good place. I prefer to spend my evenings in one of the less-traveled, and less touristy beer gardens or beer halls around town. ( http://www.hofbraeuhaus.de/en/index_en.html )




Evening in a beer garden: The beer gardens of Munich are my favorite places. These family-friendly monuments to Bavarian hospitality under shady chestnut trees are great places to unwind from the stresses of the day and to soak up the laidback atomosphere of Southern Germany. There are too many good ones to list here. Ask me for a recommendation when we get there.
For more information about visiting Munich visit Rick Steves' collection of articles:
http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/destinations/germany/germ_menu.htm
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Monday, April 2, 2012

Free Time Suggestions: Lucerne and Engelberg




Lucerne and Engelberg are going to be a nice break from the craziness of Paris. I always like to build in a couple of overnights in a smaller town to allow myself to refresh and rebuild between big cities. Engelberg, a ski and hiking resort town high in the Alps, is a perfect place in which to do this. The alpine air is crisp and fresh, even in the middle of the summer. I love to leave my window open just a little bit as I sleep under the big down comforter that is common to German and Swiss hotels. Engelberg is also where I like to take a long after-dinner walk through town, past the monastery, and into the pastures just outside of town. Be prepared for chilly weather! Switzerland can be cold and rainy even in July!



Think of our afternoon in Lucerne as an opportunity to slow down and relax for a moment. The Guilded Age of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries has left the biggest mark on Lucerne. Paddlewheel steamers still deliver sightseers to destinations around Lake Lucerne. Take some time to wander around the narrow, automobile-free streets of the old town. Lucerne is a great place to do some shopping for chocolate and Swiss Army knives (or some wardrobe refreshing at H&M). While most of Lucerne has been shaped by the nineteenth century, there is still a segment of the old city walls left for you to explore (just head uphill). Lucerne also plays host to a gallery of modern masters like Picasso, Klimt, and Klee at the Rosengart Collection (http://www.rosengart.ch/foundation.php5).



Restaurants in Switzerland can be expensive because only 17% of Switzerland can be utilized for agricultural purposes (the price for living in the Alps). That's why I always make sure to take only what I know I will be able to eat at breakfast and other meals in the hotel, especially if I am staying at a family-run hotel like the Edelweiss. That is also why I take the opportunity in Lucerne to grab some quick food and a beer at a supermarket (there's a good one in the train station) and have a picnic on the lake. After lunch with the ducks and the swans, you could take a short trip on the lake on a foot-powered paddleboat.


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